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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First year back this past fall Waterfowling since 2009. I used a Tristar viper g2 20ga and had good success, and killed some birds. I just purchased a benelli superblack eagle 3 in 20ga with a 28” barrel. I shot a variety of different loads this year, and I am wondering what ammo you 20ga guys have had good luck with. I understand that I’ll probably end up, shooting what the gun patterns best with. I mostly hunt ducks over decoys, with the occasional jump shoot. Seems like there’s a debate over the difference between knockdown power of pellet size 2s and 4s. I killed quite a few ducks this year with low brass 2-3/4” #6 steel. It rolled Goldeneyes in the decoys at 25 yds. I just bought what was available. Tried some 3” #2 black cloud and some 3” #4 expert steel. Neither seemed to pattern well for me. In the Tristar, the 2-3/4” #6’s held the best pattern. Odd, but the paper told all.
 

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The bad thing about 20 gauge ammo is you can't find it, so hunting with what you can get seems to be best solution. I have used Black Cloud #4 with my 20 gauge, but I agree that it patterns poorly.

How do you like the SBE3? I almost bought one of those.
 

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The Federal Upland steel in #6 outperforms the Expert #6. I shot a bunch of the 20 gauge Expert stuff this year because it was cheap and plentiful. I prefer the Upland Steel though.

I have had good results with Experts 3” #2’s and Kent faststeel 3” #2’s in 20 gauge. Both pattern 60/40 on paper @30 yards with a Kicks High Flyer IC choke.
 

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I use 2 3/4" #4s. My buddy bought a case of 3" #2s, but that's exclusively for goose hunting in Canada.

But, and it's a big but, what chokes are you using? If you're hunting ducks over decoys, you need to pattern #4s out of a cylinder choke tube, then an IC. Large shot and tight chokes are a recipe for poor patterns.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have been using a carlsons extended modified choke tube. I am thinking about opening up the choke when this new Benelli arrives. And really take time to pattern it, adjust the drop and cast… I have just always used modified chokes in the past, and haven’t taken the time to see how a gun really patterns.
 

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I have been using a carlsons extended modified choke tube. I am thinking about opening up the choke when this new Benelli arrives. And really take time to pattern it, adjust the drop and cast… I have just always used modified chokes in the past, and haven’t taken the time to see how a gun really patterns.
Factory choke tubes are high quality. The tubes that came with my M2's are extended, crio-treated and made on some of the best machine tools in the world. They make arguably the best barrels in the world, too.

Aftermarket choke tubes are waste of money, a triumph of marketing over reality. Start with the factory cylinder choke, you may like the IC better. Modified tubes pattern like a Full with steel and will likely be too tight and/or pattern poorly.
 
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That is really helpful advice. Thank you. I just finished watching a YouTube series from a popular YouTube Duckhunter titled surviving duck season. He took an expensive camera that shoots several thousand frames per second and tested various choke tubes, ammo and shot strings. It was very educational, and since watching that video, I don’t think I’ll spend money on another aftermarket, choke tube ever again.
 

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Factory choke tubes are high quality. The tubes that came with my M2's are extended, crio-treated and made on some of the best machine tools in the world. They make arguably the best barrels in the world, too.

Aftermarket choke tubes are waste of money, a triumph of marketing over reality. Start with the factory cylinder choke, you may like the IC better. Modified tubes pattern like a Full with steel and will likely be too tight and/or pattern poorly.
What about that trigger :ROFLMAO:
 

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Okay, guys, allow me to explain. Benelli factory triggers suck. Taran Tactical makes replacement springs for the M2 that reduce the trigger pull to an acceptable level. There's no way around the creep, though, the design guarantees it. They don't mention springs for the SBE, but it looks to me like the trigger group is the same as in the M2. A buddy recently bought an SBE, he says his trigger pull is so bad it pulls the gun off target. We'll be replacing his springs soon.

What about that trigger :ROFLMAO:

Oh..... now you've done it! Next we'll hear about misting sprinklers!:p
Everybody should have a PRV in their sprinkler system! City line pressure is ~100PSI. Sprinkler heads are designed to operate at 35-40PSI. Too much pressure causes misting which decreases efficiency so doesn't water your yard, it just evaporates. Every duck hunter should install one. I installed mine several years ago, before everybody started panicking about the GSL. It's lonely out on the cutting edge.;)
 
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Okay, guys, allow me to explain. Benelli factory triggers suck. Taran Tactical makes replacement springs for the M2 that reduce the trigger pull to an acceptable level. There's no way around the creep, though, the design guarantees it. They don't mention springs for the SBE, but it looks to me like the trigger group is the same as in the M2. A buddy recently bought an SBE, he says his trigger pull is so bad it pulls the gun off target. We'll be replacing his springs soon.

What about that trigger :ROFLMAO:



Everybody should have a PRV in their sprinkler system! City line pressure is ~100PSI. Sprinkler heads are designed to operate at 35-40PSI. Too much pressure causes misting which decreases efficiency so doesn't water your yard, it just evaporates. Every duck hunter should install one. I installed mine several years ago, before everybody started panicking about the GSL. It's lonely out on the cutting edge.;)
Jon,
If you don’t have a PRV, there is another way to eliminate misting as long as a homeowner did not buy cheap valves.
Any decent electric valve will have a ‘Flow control’ feature.
It is there for a reason, and it is not to shut a valve down.
To eliminate misting (wasting water) and to bring the flow downstream of the valve to the 35-40psi range sprinklers are designed to operate at, just simply turn your ‘Flow control’ (centered in the middle of your valve) clockwise until you see your sprinklers noticeably drop but still keep the coverage you need.
A PRV is still the best way to go, every house has one on their mainline, to keep toilet valves from blowing up.
 

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Jon,
If you don’t have a PRV, there is another way to eliminate misting as long as a homeowner did not buy cheap valves.
Any decent electric valve will have a ‘Flow control’ feature.
It is there for a reason, and it is not to shut a valve down.
To eliminate misting (wasting water) and to bring the flow downstream of the valve to the 35-40psi range sprinklers are designed to operate at, just simply turn your ‘Flow control’ (centered in the middle of your valve) clockwise until you see your sprinklers noticeably drop but still keep the coverage you need.
A PRV is still the best way to go, every house has one on their mainline, to keep toilet valves from blowing up.
Wish I'd known that, I dug up a bunch of my front yard trying to figure out where to put it. Long story, lots of work.
 
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