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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Any Trads here? Just curious. I'm a not-too-serious archery hunter, but have been at it a long time. Bought my first bow in 1973. My long time hunting bow, a 70# Howatt Hunter, was a graduation present in 1982. For practice I shoot XX75s, my hunting arrows are Port Orford cedar shafts tipped with 2-blade Zwickey Eskimos. I read Pope's book, "Hunting With The Bow and Arrow", long ago, and made a greenhide quiver as described therein. Here's a photo, complete pass through at close range:

Plant Natural environment Wood Branch Terrestrial plant


As I said, I'm not serious as I once was. Haven't been out since 2018 due to unavoidable complications, but the extending season has piqued my interest. Just started shooting again and not surprisingly, my bow feels pretty heavy. Hoping it's like the song, "I ain't as good as I once was, but I'm good once as I ever was."
 

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I dove into the whole trad bow thing head first this year and fully intended to hunt this year's archery season with a really old Ben Pearson Bushmaster that was my grandpas. I had some bad shooting sessions that really shook my confidence early in the hunt that made me shelf the recurve and bust out the compound which I killed a spike elk with. I'm back to practicing with trad gear and getting into a groove again. I believe I'm gonna hunt trad again for deer on the Wasatch extended. Probably with my El cheapo Samick Sage, since that's what I'm jiving with at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yeah, I only saw him broadside so didn't see how narrow he was. Pretty excited, too. He watched me slowly draw from 12 yards.
 

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I just got done shooting a backyard session with the Samick. I feel like I'm finally starting to solidify some good form and a nice, repeatable shot process. Usually when my accuracy and consistency is falling apart i can diagnose the problem now which is usually me failing to maintain constant back tension all the way through the shot. Paddler, if that old 70# Howatt is starting to feel a little heavy maybe you should look at some of the new designs that can probably give you similar speeds with much lower poundage. Omega longbows are some bows that deliver great performance at a very favorable price tag. Here is my cheap Samick Sage.
Insect Branch Road surface Wood Twig
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
I chronographed my 525 grain arrows at 190FPS with the dacron string, 205FPS with the Fast Flight. The Fast Flight is hard on old bows so I don't use it anymore. I have a 60# Howatt Hunter in addition to my 70# that I'm sure would do fine. But I'm stubborn and will keep shooting until I get it right. I will restrict my shots to close, 30 yards or less for now.

Martin acquired Howatt many years ago. The Hunter is still a current model, I believe unchanged from the original Howatt design. Guess they knew a good thing when the saw it:


I actually have four Howatt Hunters, a 60#, two 70# and one marked 74# but I think I measured it at 80#. Here are the other three:
Plant Wood Flower Twig Tree
:
 

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Are you sure you are a "not too serious" archery hunter? That is quite the collection you got there and you are shooting the draw weight of an absolute madman! I consider my 55 pounder my "heavy bow". Haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Are you sure you are a "not too serious" archery hunter? That is quite the collection you got there and you are shooting the draw weight of an absolute madman! I consider my 55 pounder my "heavy bow". Haha
Well, my goal is to be able to shoot my 70# recurve well when I turn 70. I have about 5 months to get there. :)
 

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I love traditional archery, especially the DIY vibe that goes along with it. I get a lot of satisfaction from making my own arrows from scratch. I'm currently trying to learn how to knap my own heads. I've made a few bows that I've given away and I'm currently trying to finish a 58" longbow for myself.

I'm hunting this year with my newest bow - Bear Super Kodiak 55 lb (serial #01-001) shooting Tamarisk shafts with an internal foot and an outsert to accept screw-on heads = 620 grains.

Problem is that I'm getting older, too. I used to pride myself on my stalking skills, but I just don't have the balance or muscle tone for it anymore. Tree stand seems like cheating to me, but I'm sure giving it some serious thought.
 
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I like your thinking! I'll try to shoot a 40 lb recurve well when I'm 40. That gives me 2 1/2 years.:cool:
I had my wife look at my arrow when I pulled my bow last night. Looks like I'm only drawing to 27.5" or so with the 70# bow. When I was ~40 years old I could hold it at full draw for 30 seconds. Father Time is undefeated, but I think I can get some back.
 

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I've been looking at getting into the trad game. What are your recommendations for starter bows/arrows? Would love to be able to put together a kit to get shooting for around or under $500. From what I've seen the Samick Sage is a decent place to start? For arrows, can I use the same carbons I'm shooting now or do I need to invest in a much much heavier set up? I've been considering doing this for my compound anyways.
 

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I've been looking at getting into the trad game. What are your recommendations for starter bows/arrows? Would love to be able to put together a kit to get shooting for around or under $500. From what I've seen the Samick Sage is a decent place to start? For arrows, can I use the same carbons I'm shooting now or do I need to invest in a much much heavier set up? I've been considering doing this for my compound anyways.
You can shoot carbons out of a trad bow. Myself and many others do. If you are shooting off of the shelf and not a rest you will need feather fletchings. Plastic vanes don't have enough give and will tear off when they make contact with the shelf. Feather fletchings will offer more steering and correction also, which is somethinf you will want. You are going to need a lighter spine than you would generally shoot out of a compound. Samick Sage is a perfectly good starter bow and is what I rolled with. I would recommend starting with one no heavier than 35 lbs while you learn good form and shooting habits, then upgrade to hunting weight limbs (or another bow that is hunting weight) later. You might say "oh, well I'm strong. I lift weights. Blah blah blah." Doesn't matter. Start light! Or don't and probably teach yourself a bunch of bad habits that will be hard to break. I kind of did this myself. I didn't start with a heavy draw weight, but I tried to move up too quickly I believe and it hurt me. Lots of guys have tried to start out with too heavy of a bow and had less than desirable results.
 

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Get a light Samick Sage and some .700 spine gold tip warrior arrows from 3rivers archery and you will have some basic equipment to get you off to a good start without spending too terribly much. I'm no Tom Clum, and probably not even a Paddler or a Finnegan, but if you have any questions feel free to ask. I may know just enough to help a noob (a slightly noobier noob than myself) get started out.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've been looking at getting into the trad game. What are your recommendations for starter bows/arrows? Would love to be able to put together a kit to get shooting for around or under $500. From what I've seen the Samick Sage is a decent place to start? For arrows, can I use the same carbons I'm shooting now or do I need to invest in a much much heavier set up? I've been considering doing this for my compound anyways.
Well, one can get a used recurve pretty cheap, I think. Pretty sure you could get a name brand in very good condition for $200 or less. There's a Samick Sage on KSL for $65 right now. Or, here's another option, but it may be priced a bit too high:

Martin Damon Howatt Hi-Speed,46#@28",58”amo

Draw weight is highly variable, depending on your upper body strength. I walked into an archery shop in 1973, Sierra Archery, to select my first bow. I was able to pull a heavier bow, but the owner recommended I just buy a 55# recurve. I overdrew that bow a couple of inches. I think if you were able to handle a 45#-50# bow it could be your forever bow. Up to you. My 55# Red Wing Hunter was pretty lifeless with heavier arrows, but with lighter arrows I killed this buck in 1979. And a couple of rattlesnakes, some bunnies, and other stuff:

Trophy hunting Hunting Deer hunting Vertebrate Deer
Sky Mountain Plant Plant community Vertebrate
Plant Plant community Giraffe People in nature Sky


As far as arrows go, lots of options. Your carbons might work, just make sure the spine is close. However, I prefer aluminum as I'm not a believer in light arrows. I think momentum is more important than energy, the latter emphasizes velocity over projectile weight. Momentum is a better predictor of penetration, an arrow typically kills by penetrating to the vitals and cutting blood vessels and/or puncturing the lungs.

But I digress. I use aluminum for practice, but have used wood shafts with my Zwickey Eskimo 2-bladed broadheads for hunting. For a beginner, I think aluminum shafts with a screw in 125 grain broad is about right. That way you could just screw in some 125 gr field points for practice. YMMV, but I recommend a moderate weight arrow.
 

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I got rid of my stickbow a couple years ago before I moved back to Utah. I’ll get another one soon cause my daughter wants a new one too. I got 3 compounds so I need to balance out my collection again with a few new Sticks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I got rid of my stickbow a couple years ago before I moved back to Utah. I’ll get another one soon cause my daughter wants a new one too. I got 3 compounds so I need to balance out my collection again with a few new Sticks.
I have 5 recurves, no compounds. Perfect balance. ;)
 
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