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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am fairly new to the archery hunt, this will be my first year actually being the one with a bow in my hand. With that said, what arrows work best for the hunt? I will be both deer and elk hunting with my bow. I have read a lot of reviews and talked to a few people but am curious as to what opinions you guys have on arrows. I would love as much info as possible before i go out and start spending my money.
 

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I use the Gold Tip hunter xt. You will get a lot of people that use this Arrow because they are a local company and I have not had any issues with mine. I think they are around 50 bucks or so for 6 so not to bad price wise. Just make sure you are using the correct spine for your draw length/poundage. Any pro shop or sportsmans warehouse can verify that for you they will usually cut them for you free of charge as well. My buddy has been using the sportsmans warehouse brand and they seem to be good and they are only 30 bucks or so. If you are a beginner you will break a few arrows the first little while of shooting. It may not be a bad idea to go inexpensive at first.
 

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It really depends on you. Like Brendo said your pro shop can help you with arrows. Some will even test which arrows tune best to your bow. That being said, I believe you can tune your bow to any arrow. I have some (4)Easton carbon axis and (5)Easton carbon injexions that I would be willing to get rid of for a steal. They are set up for a 29" draw. I am only a 28" draw, so I don't shoot them. PM if you would like them.
 

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I personally use gold tip kinetics. I got them on discount at Jake's because they were last year's label. Can't go wrong with Easton either, but I think Gold Tip sells the most durable arrow around. Like others have said, it's important to make sure the arrow weight and spine are a good fit for your setup. If you want to go the cheap route, Sportsmans sells the "Sportsman's Warehouse Vital Impact" arrows for around $35 per 6. These are made by Gold Tip and are pretty decent arrows.
 

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Gold Tip actually makes arrows for sportmans that are there own brand and I shoot them same arrow about 35 for 6 I have never had an issue with them
 

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I have been shooting Easton Axis for years and I love em
 
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gold tips xt hunters are awesome arrow they are strong all gold tips arrows are. plus there price are great as well.
last year i shot one of the scheels brand gold tip arrows off about a 60' cliff straight into a rock. i picked it up, flexed the shaft and continued to shoot it the rest of the way down the course. (this was on the fish shot at snowbird). it blunted the tip a little but that was the worst of it. the hit sounded solid but it must have slightly glanced. most arrows will stack the point about a third of the way back into the shaft when that happens.
 

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There is a lot of myths out there about arrows. I have been shooting for over 40 years, probably 50 now and I have seen a lot of "facts" and "fads" come and go. Bottom line is you need to have a properly spined arrow shaft for the bow you are shooting. Over spine is fine if you are shooting a compound with a drop away rest, shooting off the shelf or with a long bow/recurve, then you need to be concerned with over spine. Under spine will cause flight problems as well as accuracy issues regardless of type of bow used. Broad heads need to be sharp, brand doesn't matter, they all kill... if you put the arrow in the "boiler room". Brand of shaft doesn't matter, use the one you prefer. Make sure they are all the same weight. I have shot a lot of different brands over the years and have my favorite. In time, with experience, you will too. Fletching type, style and count is a personal preference. Just use enough fletching to control the arrow. Helical vrs offset is also a matter of opinion and preference, both work well. Put enough helical or offset on the fletch to control the broad head. More only slows down the arrow and doesn't add to accuracy. FOC is another thing to look at. Follow the Easton Arrow recommendations, they know what they are talking about. More than 15% FOC is also a matter of opinion and preference.

Archery is a highly opinionated sport and everyone feels they are an expert. I suppose, for their likes and dislikes, they are, but for everyone else... well, that is the beauty of the sport... you get to wade through all the B.S. and decide what is fact and what is fiction. Listen and read every thing you can, just don't believe it all. Find something that works for you and stick with it. Practice is what makes you good, not equipment or tune. Consistency is key. Enjoy the journey.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
There is a lot of myths out there about arrows. I have been shooting for over 40 years, probably 50 now and I have seen a lot of "facts" and "fads" come and go. Bottom line is you need to have a properly spined arrow shaft for the bow you are shooting. Over spine is fine if you are shooting a compound with a drop away rest, shooting off the shelf or with a long bow/recurve, then you need to be concerned with over spine. Under spine will cause flight problems as well as accuracy issues regardless of type of bow used. Broad heads need to be sharp, brand doesn't matter, they all kill... if you put the arrow in the "boiler room". Brand of shaft doesn't matter, use the one you prefer. Make sure they are all the same weight. I have shot a lot of different brands over the years and have my favorite. In time, with experience, you will too. Fletching type, style and count is a personal preference. Just use enough fletching to control the arrow. Helical vrs offset is also a matter of opinion and preference, both work well. Put enough helical or offset on the fletch to control the broad head. More only slows down the arrow and doesn't add to accuracy. FOC is another thing to look at. Follow the Easton Arrow recommendations, they know what they are talking about. More than 15% FOC is also a matter of opinion and preference.

Archery is a highly opinionated sport and everyone feels they are an expert. I suppose, for their likes and dislikes, they are, but for everyone else... well, that is the beauty of the sport... you get to wade through all the B.S. and decide what is fact and what is fiction. Listen and read every thing you can, just don't believe it all. Find something that works for you and stick with it. Practice is what makes you good, not equipment or tune. Consistency is key. Enjoy the journey.
Thanks, I appreciate that. I have been trying to gather as much information as possible before making a decision as I am new to bow hunting but this will help.

And I will be shooting an Elite Energy 35 with a QAD Ultra Rest.
 

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Mass, Speed, Kinetic Energy, and Arrow Drop

Everyone's been throwing around brand name endorsements. Start by understanding the variables in hunting arrows. It starts with the same discussion as bullets: fast, flat, light bullets or slow, heavy, arching bullets. Which is more lethal? It depends. It makes for good debate. Everyone has an opinion.

Good read to start understanding the variables:

http://www.huntersfriend.com/carbon_arrows/hunting_arrows_selection_guide_chapter_5.htm

Then start by thinking about how long of shot you're willing to take, on what size game, and how much opportunity (time) you'll have to estimate distances.
 

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On the topic of arrows...
I've heard from multiple people that the sportsmans warehouse vital impact arrows are actually made by gold tip. Any idea what gold tip arrows they compare to?
 

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Here's a different twist, try shooting an arrow shaft a little on the light side with a stiffer spine and high FOC. I am currently doing that with some 330 spine at 7.9 gpi. Total arrow weight is 400 gr with an FOC of 16% and getting very favorable results. They drive as deep as some heavier arrows I've been shooting and have more speed. That arrow is currently shooting 305 fps out of my Nitrum 30.
 

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I am shooting Easton Bloodlines this year and so far have loved them.
 

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On the topic of arrows...
I've heard from multiple people that the sportsmans warehouse vital impact arrows are actually made by gold tip. Any idea what gold tip arrows they compare to?
If I remember correctly, they are comparable to the expedition hunters but don't quote me on that. Call Sportsman's or Gold Tip to know for sure, and call Gold Tip to get the GPI. It's not written on the arrows. I think it's 8.7 for the 300 shaft, but again, don't quote me on that. Come to think of it, I think have half a dozen out in storage (cut to 29") I could sell you if you're interested.
 

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"I would't shoot an aluminum arrow, but that is just me."
Huh???

If I were into spot shooting, I would shoot nothing else. For years, that is what we shot. They have a proven record. I was given several dozen aluminum arrows a year ago and so I have been shooting them. Much heavier than the carbons, but certainly more consistent grouping. I have robin hooded several in the last few months. I will likely use them for hunting deer and lopers this fall.
 

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I shot the same 12 Easton Axis arrows for many years, geez now that I think about it, I shot the crap out of them....probably 1000+ shots each. After a while they started to develop small cracks/fractures near the front of the arrow where the base of the field point and arrow met. I got a bit nervous that I'd have an exploding arrow on release and end up with shards/slivers of carbon in my hand so I retired them. I switched Easton FMJ 340's and have never looked back. They are a carbon and allow metal arrow and a bit heavier than most - but are very straight and have penetrated well on the deer and elk I have shot. My draw weight is 65lbs, I shoot a 28.5 inch arrow with 100 grain tips and 2.5 inch blazer vanes. It's a good setup for me and my bow.
 
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