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I'm putting some feelers out for my next reloading thread; neck sizing vs full length sizing. It's gonna be a goodun', I can feel it. I'm talking 30 pages, 45 pages if Bax* duplicates my thread.
While I've only been reloading for a short time (3 years or so) and only for about 5 calibers, I've definitely learned a few things about FL vs. Neck only sizing. I'm sure the thread would further expand my limited knowledge base.

I think I have a box of 180gr Barnes "Original" bullets in .277 cal kicking around somewhere. Bought them when I was a teenager and thought they'd be cool.

-DallanC
180's in a .277 !? While I am no expert that seems quite heavy for a .270 (6.8mm) and can't imagine they'd be much good past about 300yds but would probably knock a deer on its A** at 1,800fps.

Wonder how the recoil would be shooting those....
 

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180's in a .277 !? While I am no expert that seems quite heavy for a .270 (6.8mm) and can't imagine they'd be much good past about 300yds but would probably knock a deer on its A** at 1,800fps.

Wonder how the recoil would be shooting those....
Ya, made for closer shoots on big things. About the same BC as throwing a brick



Barnes had a whole line of big fat overweight ugly bullets.

-DallanC
 

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Wouldn't leave much room in the case for powder without compressing, that's for sure.

Would make a great load for an open sight, sporterized .270 brush gun though!
 

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watching T-ball is funner than reloading

While I've only been reloading for a short time (3 years or so) and only for about 5 calibers, I've definitely learned a few things about FL vs. Neck only sizing. I'm sure the thread would further expand my limited knowledge base.

.............................................................
I'm not so sure I would call a thread comparing neck sizing with full length sizing "expanding my ...knowledge base". That argument can get pretty contentious.

3 years huh? I quit reloading, using salt, and duck hunting about the time they outlawed lead shot for waterfowl in WY, 1982 I'm thinking. Now I'm back to doing all three again.

Reloading is cool, as much fun as watching the grandkids play T-ball.....uh...Anyway, I'm hoping someday I'll make enough money to buy all my ammo at a store. Now, waitaminute, all the ammo at the store is crimped.

dangit

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this is my favorite thread

Wouldn't leave much room in the case for powder without compressing, that's for sure.

Would make a great load for an open sight, sporterized .270 brush gun though!
Ah, ha, ha, ho, ho, hee, hee

When I first moved out West I used round nose bullets in my 270. Made sense to me since I had a coffee can of them. One of them Wyoming cowboy dudes I was working with took one look at my ammo and said "150 grain round nose bullets kinda defeats the purpose of a 270 doesn't it?" WTF? Geeze, glad I wasn't using my 12 gauge shotgun and slugs. :smile:

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I have a mixed relationship with crimping rifle rounds. When I first started reloading I decided to load a few boxes of 30-06 combined technology ballistic silvertips. I thought it would be cool to crimp them because my reloading manual talked about it. Well, I slightly over crimped (roll) about 150 rounds, slightly misshaped my brass. I couldn't tell until I tried to chamber a round and the bolt wouldn't turn over. That led me down the road of various bullet pulling devices. Man, thinking back I have made many many mistakes reloading...getting brass stuck in dies, using the wrong primer for the round, deforming brass/bullets and many other stupid mistakes, and I have yet to blow myself up--so lucky. Oh the fun!

Since ruining a bunch of rounds crimping rifle bullets I now follow the rule that I don't crimp unless the bullet has a cannelure. I only roll crimp as I am a revolver guy, but after the AR blew up thread maybe I need to buy a taper crimp die for my 223 rounds.

I would only have several thousand to run through it--sounds like an enjoyable day! :shock:

Being that most all of my 223 ammo is Hornady vmax without cannelure would it be a prudent investment of time and $ to get one of these?

https://www.midwayusa.com/product/353847/rcbs-ar-series-taper-crimp-seater-die-223-remington

I have never had an issue with ARs moving bullets in my reloads but neither did Al until his blew up.

Anyone every try to roll crimp plated lead handgun bullets without a cannelure--that's some fun! On a whim, I bought a bunch of plated rounds for my 44 mag and regardless of my aggressive roll crimping they still work themselves out even with 44 special power loadings. Stupid bullets, I can only load three at a time, otherwise they work themselves out and jam my cylinder. Sorry for the derailment, this thread is about rifles.

So is it worth buying taper crimp dies for your rifles to use when no cannelure is present or maybe you want to take the bullet out to the lands and can't use the cannelure (bullets look dumb this way)? or just roll crimp super lightly--I don't want to try that again to tell ya the truth.
 

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Anyone every try to roll crimp plated lead handgun bullets without a cannelure--that's some fun! On a whim, I bought a bunch of plated rounds for my 44 mag and regardless of my aggressive roll crimping they still work themselves out even with 44 special power loadings. Stupid bullets, I can only load three at a time, otherwise they work themselves out and jam my cylinder. Sorry for the derailment, this thread is about rifles.
I reload alot of plated bullets w/o cannelure... specifically 380 and 40SW Berrys Bullets. I've yet to have a feed issue, but havent really mic'd any to see if they are moving. I doubt the 380 would, but its definitely a possibility with the snappy 40S&W.

So is it worth buying taper crimp dies for your rifles to use when no cannelure is present or maybe you want to take the bullet out to the lands and can't use the cannelure (bullets look dumb this way)? or just roll crimp super lightly--I don't want to try that again to tell ya the truth.
You can crimp most any bottle case with the seating die if you screw it down tighter. I like a slight pressure on my case mouths, but I wouldnt call it a "crimp" per day. IDK if you can even get a dedicated taper crimp for most rifle calibers... never really thought about it, or noticed them being for sale.

-DallanC
 

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I did a little test today with identical loads, 5 shots without any crimp and 5 with a crimp using the Lee Factory Crimp Die. Bullets were 110gr Barnes TTSX from a .270

My disclaimer is that this was not my personal best as far as shooting days goes, but still...the crimped loads did not group quite as well. In fact, they shot quite poorly.
 

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Goob, because you crimp all of your rifle rounds (even bolt gun, right?), I'm wondering if you have done any tests to see how many firings you can take your brass through without annealing before accuracy falls off.

I crimp all my loads, but don't go passed 4 firings on my brass because I figure the brass is probably getting pretty work hardened at that point. But, I would think the crimp would allow you to keep going on the brass with accuracy until you get loose primer pockets or too much case web stretching.

What say you?
 

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Actually I don't crimp all my rifle reloads. I own a number of pump rifles a few semi-autos. Those get crimped. I've crimped an amount ammo for my bolt actions

Number of firings? That's dependent upon so many variables: caliber, type of powder, powder charge, distance off the lands...more...then there's the brass. The hardness value of factory brass varies considerably from one casing manufacturer to another.

Crimping brass for bolt-actions has been more of an experiment than a habit. I just haven't found the time to test and record all the calibers and loads I've crimped.

One thing is certain; open any box of factory ammo and you'll find most are crimped.


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I believe that most if not all factory round are going to have a crimp on them just for the simple reason that the factory has no idea of what that round is going to be shot out of.

For my bolt rifles I have never crimped while reloading. This runs from a 22-250 all the way up to a .340 Weatherby. On the Weatherby I actually ran a test to see if the bullets were jumping out of the neck by loading the magazine up with the three rounds and then just shooting two rounds leaving the third round in the magazine as I topped it off for a number of times. When I measured the overall length of that one round it was still right where I had seated the bullet.

Now I do have a few rounds that I do place a slight crimp on them and some that get a little bit heaver crimp, it just all depends.
 

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Crimping is used to maintain uniformity in rounds. It is not an accuracy thing. If a round is going to be deformed( bullet pushed in or pulled out) from handling, shipping or even just carrying around in your pocket, or from recoil or magazine pressure(spring loaded tubular magazines), then crimping is necessary.

As with any step in the reloading process, accuracy is dependent upon consistency. Ultimately, crimping rounds will help to maintain consistency, overall length, from round to round.

I always crimp rounds that are intended to be used in my lever guns but never crimp for rifles with box type magazines. High capacity box magazines can deform the rounds slightly from recoil the longer it remains in the magazine as you shoot. But that is pretty minimal.
 

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From reading through this long thread, I thought you were crimping everything, Goob.

BP, I'm sure the purpose is probably for making the cartridge more robust and resistant to the bullet getting pushed back. But, crimping CAN increase accuracy, not that it always does though. It can help create more consistent start pressures and reduce velocity spreads, due to more consistent bullet hold by the case.

I just need to get a Chrono so I can test all these questions I need answers to!
 
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