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I have a 300 WSM Ruger m77 mark II and I'm just wondering was the best reload recipe is for this type of gun. I mainly hunt elk with it and only shoot out to 500 yards max with it. I'd like to know what powder and primers and bullets you guys have had the best results with. Also, is there a book out there that has multiple reload recipes for this caliber and different calibers? I'm planning on doing a lot of shooting this summer because I will be drawing a really good tag in Colorado and my LE elk tag in Utah.

Appreciate any help.

Thanks
 

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There are many books from various bullet manufacturers: Nosler, Hornady, and Speer to name a few. Most will have just about every cartridge under the sun, and each of their individual bullets for a cartridge will contain a list of different powders they have tested, and their recommended minimum, maximum, and recommended loads for their bullets.

The problem lies in that two of the exact same gun, in the exact same caliber, could like a completely different taste in bullets, powder, and headspacing. What works in one, will not inherently work in a mirror copy due to microscopic errors and differences. That is where trial and error comes into play. I would look into seeing what bullets are most readily available to you, by company and preference.

If you are already an experienced hand loader, ignore the rest of my post.

- By that, I'd look into the best 30. caliber bullets available to you that would likely do best against an elk at .300 wsm speeds.
-I'd buy one of their manuals, and look and see which powders they list are the easiest for you to obtain. You may look at powders ahead of time just to see what you have locally; online purchases that require shipping often require expensive haz-mat fees.
-What ever primers and brass you can get easily would be best just starting out. I feel like those are something you can change at a later date, but it is important that you remember that changing ANY component and ANY variable will change pressures and results, so it is important you try and keep them constant. A general rule of chemistry.
-After that, see what you can learn about judging headspacing from youtube or another visual source. I think being shown will do more justice than being told. I'd try and get the bullet .010 inches off the lands if possible to start and , but further away is typically better than too close from a safety perspective, but closer is typically more accurate (not the case with my nosler e-tips). I start with a consistent minimum load of powder for a bullet and get the head spacing down before I start adding the powder on afterwords. I feel that it is safer that way.
-Start with the recommended minimum load, building a few prototypes in steady increments of powder up to max load and see what charge and speed shoots best. Your marksmanship will improve greatly with the amount of shooting you'll be doing. You may find that you only get decent results, and while you can continue fine tuning a load, changing powders is another option if you feel that you need better results, which means more shooting and testing before you can really get practicing.

If you're going to try someone else's load, always dial back the charge AT LEAST 10-15% and build up to their load, lest you build a gun-shaped bomb.

That's about everything I can think of.
 

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My loads are pretty close to TRClements. For elk, I also run RL-17 or H4350 in a Tikka T3 300 WSM Stainless. 215M primers or WLRM primers both work great. This rifle shoots everything well but for large bull elk..I prefer to shoot the 168 TTSX from Barnes. 168 gr Berger Classic Hunters for everything from cow elk down to antelope. I am running my loads HOT so I prefer not to state how many grains..start with load data from the powder companies and work up gradually. I have also had excellent accuracy with the same powders and good old 180 Sierra Game Kings. Maybe not the toughest bullet out there..but they shoot great and if you put it in the boiler broadside, you should recover your elk every time.
 
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