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I was curious to know if any of you have the Archers Advantage software for making sight tapes. I have the Windows version and I've made a few tapes mainly for single pin sliders, but I need to make a tape for a 3-pin slider. I'm pretty sure the software has a function for setting pin gaps for multi-pin sliders but I'm just not sure where in the software that function is. I emailed the software company today asking the same question, but I thought I would throw it out on this forum as well. I would appreciate any information anybody has on using this particular software to determine pin gaps.
 

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I use T.A.P. but I know it is a similar program. As previously mentioned, it does not matter. You take the measurements as required, feed the info into the computer, print and mount the tape. What you need to do for multiple pins is setup the sight tape for say 20 yards as your first pin, set the other pins according to the tape for the proper distance and then they are only good when the first pin is set for 20 yards. When I setup mine for 5 pins with my slider set to 20 yards, the next 4 pins were set at 30, 40, 50 and 60 yards. The last pin (60) was the floating pin. If I needed to shoot at say 70 yards to 150 yards, I would move the sight adjustment and put the needle on the yardage I wanted using the 60 yard (last pin) as the sighting pin. To be more specific, setup your pins for fixed, then when it is adjusted correctly, move your needle down to 60 on the sight tape without moving your sight. When the needle is on 60, you can use your fixed pins. If you want to shoot say 80 yards, move your sight to read 80 and use your last pin. After the shot, move your sight back to 60 yards and your fixed pins are ready to go again. I only used the floating pin for a very short time and eventually got rid of all the additional pins so I could use 1 pin and keep it centered in the sight aperture. I found I was much more accurate doing this. Some people like the floating pin setup, I found it was not for me. It works, but the whole reason for a single pin setup for me is to keep the pin centered in the aperture
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Why are modern archers so eager to make an ancient art so complicated? :D
 

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Why is it that some of you guys who shoot stick bows think you are such purists. I never see comments from wheel guys be-littling or criticizing stick guys. Why is it some of you stick guys always feel a need to make sure the rest of us know you dance to a different tune? Self assurance?... A lot of us have been there and done that and chose to go in the direction we have. I shot a stick bow for years, and enjoy shooting one still, but would never hunt with one again. We each get our own satisfaction and enjoyment from our choice... Let it go...
 

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Bow-dude, I use a combination of four programs, AA, TAP and Ontarget2, along with my Easton Bowforce Chronograph and mapper. As was mentioned you can print your tape for your slider sight from 20 yards out and hold the tape behind your pins to gap them, it will be accurate for most vertical drive systems, but if you have a sight with the arched rear facing tape like the older sure-loc or HHA sights, or a Spot Hogg with a dial that won't work... you'll need to print a "pin gap" which all three programs will do.

I even use those programs to print sight tapes for my recurve and longbows ;-)
 

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Topo... Agreed. I have one of the "older" Sure loc sights and am aware of what you are saying. For a long time, T.A.P. was the only program that would print out a sight tape for the "arched" rear sight tape. Good to know the others have added that feature. The process is still the same, however. I add a step for this type of sight when I want to use the rear sight tape. I print out both tapes (side and curved) and then check them one with the other to verify accuracy by placing both on the sight and simply moving through the yardages. My Sure Loc gives me a choice of a "flat" side mounted sight tape and a curved "rear/front" sight tape. I place a sight tape on the side for target and goof off and one on the back/front for hunting purposes (different weight arrows and flight characteristics). One of my hunting partners uses a Spot Hogg dial sight with a floating pin and we have set him up using the mentioned system. So far, he has been accurate out to 80 yards (verified it on the long shot at the Tooele 3-d shoot back in January. FYI, not sure about the other programs, but for archery golf, I have made sight tapes out past 350 yards and landed arrows within 5 yards of the puck. I have been really impressed with T.A.P. and its accuracy. Like any computer generated report, it is only as good as the accuracy of the data.... garbage in, garbage out.
 

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T.A.P. will print a sight tape out to 200 yards. Depending on the arrow I shoot, I can get my slider sight to adjust between 150 yards and 185 yards. I will print a 2nd tape beginning at 180 yards (or what ever I choose) instead of beginning at 0, and let it print to 360 yards or what ever it can. The program spaces (gaps) the marks correctly based upon the computers calculations. I print the tape going up. I then put the bow in my press and get out my lazer level, plumb the string and then shoot a lazer line so my 180 yard pin is transferred onto my bow limb/riser. I then install the tape onto the upper limb with the 180 yard mark in line with the mark I just placed on the bow. The sight tape is now ready to use. (Not sure if all this makes sense) I will then range a target... say it is 220 yards away. With my sight pin set at 180, I place the pin on the target (bow un-drawn) and then lookup the bow limb, find the 220 mark and note where it is on the horizon. I then raise my bow up to that "mark", placing the pin on the noted spot and release. Amazing how accurate it is. The only limiting factor is the distance the bow will shoot an arrow and running out of space on my limb. Parallel limbs have also become a bit of a challenge. Generally my tape only extends about 8 to 10 inches up the riser and limb.

It really is nothing more than pin gap shooting, just a whole lot more accurate. you can do a similar gap shooting thing with fixed pins, but not as long a distance and not as accurate. Say you have a target at 80 yards, but you only have pins to 50. Place the 50 on the target, note where the 20 yard pin hits on the horizon, tree branch or what ever, raise the bow up to where your 50 yard pin hits the mark and release. The pin gap is running backwards, so it isn't anywhere near as accurate, but will generally get you into the target or on paper, or very close. I have used this on the 3-d course when the target exceeds my sight pin setup.
 
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