Ok this might be a dumb question but I'm new to using a single pin sight. What is the easiest/best way to sight in with this sight (cbe tek hybrid) how do I go about picking the best sight tape? Also which set of holes should I have the needle for my yardage adjustment mounted on before I begin to try and sight in? Thanks
Single pin sighting in
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With the sight pin, you need to know how fast your are shooting or the other option is usually shooting at 20, 30, 40, 60 and marking them. Then taking that to your pro shop and they can print you off a sight tape. If you know how fast your bow shoots your arrow setup, then the manufacturer usually includes a sight tape based on that already.
I setup my single pin (mount) to the holes that gives me the most yardage. i.e., I can get my sure loc to go from 20 yards to 180 yards, depending upon the arrow combination I am using.
As far as sight tapes, I don't trust any thing you purchase, too many variables. I have a chorono and I have a program (T.A.P.) and I print my own. I am frequently changing arrow setups, so I need to print new sight tapes quite often. Changing from fletchings to vanes will affect your sight tape as well as changing the poundage of the bow, or moving your peep, adding something or taking something off the string, or even extending the sight out from the bow. I would suggest investing in a computer program and a chorono. The great thing about a computer program is you can experiment on line with various arrow setups and see what the arrow performance will be without investing time or money in arrows. I drew a loper permit this year so I will be playing with different setups to see what arrow is the flattest shooting with adequate penetration at 50 - 70 yards. Then I will build the arrow and shoot it thru my chrono, after which I will print out a sight tape.
Here is a picture of a 20 yard group just prior to going to the 3-d shoot in Vernal this year, and a single shot at the 80 yard target at the Vernal shoot. I made up the sight tape prior to going to vernal and had only shot arrows out to 30 yards with this tape. You can see the 80 yard pin was on the money. As with any computer program, the accuracy is only as good as the information you put in. As the saying goes, garbage in garbage out. The 3rd picture is the same 80 yard shot, just earlier in the day. I post it just to prove that it was not a fluke and the program/tape really works. The 4th and 5th pictures are shots taken at the BWB range at their outdoor shoot they held recently using a different arrow combination (pictures 1-3 are 320 grain arrows, pictures 4 & 5 are 560 grain arrows). As I remember, the 4th shot was around 93 yards and the 5th shot was around 108. (these were obviously "Kodak Moments", we won't mention or show the other "non Kodak Moments".
As far as sight tapes, I don't trust any thing you purchase, too many variables. I have a chorono and I have a program (T.A.P.) and I print my own. I am frequently changing arrow setups, so I need to print new sight tapes quite often. Changing from fletchings to vanes will affect your sight tape as well as changing the poundage of the bow, or moving your peep, adding something or taking something off the string, or even extending the sight out from the bow. I would suggest investing in a computer program and a chorono. The great thing about a computer program is you can experiment on line with various arrow setups and see what the arrow performance will be without investing time or money in arrows. I drew a loper permit this year so I will be playing with different setups to see what arrow is the flattest shooting with adequate penetration at 50 - 70 yards. Then I will build the arrow and shoot it thru my chrono, after which I will print out a sight tape.
Here is a picture of a 20 yard group just prior to going to the 3-d shoot in Vernal this year, and a single shot at the 80 yard target at the Vernal shoot. I made up the sight tape prior to going to vernal and had only shot arrows out to 30 yards with this tape. You can see the 80 yard pin was on the money. As with any computer program, the accuracy is only as good as the information you put in. As the saying goes, garbage in garbage out. The 3rd picture is the same 80 yard shot, just earlier in the day. I post it just to prove that it was not a fluke and the program/tape really works. The 4th and 5th pictures are shots taken at the BWB range at their outdoor shoot they held recently using a different arrow combination (pictures 1-3 are 320 grain arrows, pictures 4 & 5 are 560 grain arrows). As I remember, the 4th shot was around 93 yards and the 5th shot was around 108. (these were obviously "Kodak Moments", we won't mention or show the other "non Kodak Moments".
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I'll concur with Bow_Dude, TAP is one of the nicest programs you can get.
Check out TAPes for $15. It's the easiest way to create a tape for your single pin.
http://thearcheryprogram.com/products
Cheers,
Pete
Check out TAPes for $15. It's the easiest way to create a tape for your single pin.
http://thearcheryprogram.com/products
Cheers,
Pete
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With cbe you can mark 30 and 60 with pencil and match up a tape that come with the sight so the 30 and 60 yard mark fits your pencil marks then test 20, 50 and 80. If its slightly off pick the faster or slower tape until it fits. The better you aim with your 30 and 60 the better your tape will be. garbage in garbage out. 30 and 60 are also really good distances for 95% of your shots out west. I don't agree with doing the 20-80 because you can be slightly off at those distances in your anchor point and get garbage data. I can sight my CBE or have my Daughter sight her CBE in about 15 minutes.
Here is another tip
sight your bow in for maximum point blank range just like you would do for your rifle. You can take a paper plate and put a dot in the center. Pick a distance around 33 yards and set your sight for that distance. Take your target and move it to 40 yards and shoot an arrow. if the arrow lands below the paper plate move your sight to 34 yards and repeat. You want your arrows just inside the plate on the bottom while aiming at the center. Now go to 20 and shoot. If your 20 hits low move your sight down until your arrows are just inside the top of the plate and re test your 40. If it hits lower than the bottom of the paper plate and your 20 is hitting correct your maxim point blank range is closer say 38 yards or so. once you figure out where to set your sight and know the drop between your close and furthest shot where you can still hit the plate aiming at the middle its easy to hit anything in-between those distances by just aiming slightly higher or lower. of course the faster your bow the further your MPB will be. After 45 yards you really need an accurate range with any sight because an arrow really starts to drop after that distance just like a rifle really starts to drop after 300 yards.
Here is another tip
sight your bow in for maximum point blank range just like you would do for your rifle. You can take a paper plate and put a dot in the center. Pick a distance around 33 yards and set your sight for that distance. Take your target and move it to 40 yards and shoot an arrow. if the arrow lands below the paper plate move your sight to 34 yards and repeat. You want your arrows just inside the plate on the bottom while aiming at the center. Now go to 20 and shoot. If your 20 hits low move your sight down until your arrows are just inside the top of the plate and re test your 40. If it hits lower than the bottom of the paper plate and your 20 is hitting correct your maxim point blank range is closer say 38 yards or so. once you figure out where to set your sight and know the drop between your close and furthest shot where you can still hit the plate aiming at the middle its easy to hit anything in-between those distances by just aiming slightly higher or lower. of course the faster your bow the further your MPB will be. After 45 yards you really need an accurate range with any sight because an arrow really starts to drop after that distance just like a rifle really starts to drop after 300 yards.
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If you are in Logan I charge $10 to run your tapes and we keep them on file in case of changes... and we sight in at 20 yards.
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I have sighted in many slider style sights and have yet to have arrow weight, speed, or anything else play a part in it. The simplest way is to figure out the "ballistics" of you bow/arrow combination. Sight in the pin for what ever yardage, say 30. Put a piece of tape on the yardage indicator spot mark your 30 yard spot then move up to 20 and move the sight window up using what ever control device it has. Keep adjusting it up and down until you are dead on and mark it with a pen wherever the pointer is at. Then move back to another yardage, say 60. Repeat the same as you did at 20 and mark it. Match up a sight tape between the 20 and 60 yd marks. Set your slider back to the 30 yd sight in and place the sight tape on the yardage indicator spot aligning the 30 yard mark with the indicator needle.
Many slider sights come with multiple sight tapes. No need for a fancy program or chronograph. The tricky thing is your shooting form must be consistent or sighting a slider sight can get frustrating. And use only one arrow to do all this with.
Many slider sights come with multiple sight tapes. No need for a fancy program or chronograph. The tricky thing is your shooting form must be consistent or sighting a slider sight can get frustrating. And use only one arrow to do all this with.
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1,384 Posts
i like to do most things myself. i bought my sight at a local pro shop and they offered to build a tape for me. all i needed to do was sight in at 20 yards and lock it down. they handled everything else from there. i'm told that you may have to make a few tapes but they got it right the first time. i was dead on out to about 90 yards and then i only needed to add a yard to be back in the pie plate. i do know the frustration of sighting in multi pin sights and was very appreciative to have such an easy time with the help of some pros.
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